And now for something completely different

So after some walking, cycling and trad climbing, last night i decided to return to my main focus, primarily as i need to get strong for Italy. Unfortunately, this soon involved spending money… I was a total gear freak before i started working in a shop (hence wanting to work in a shop) and now that i do, it’s possibly even worse. This wouldn’t have been a major issue, but the new Ogwen guide came out on Wednesday and yesterday, it spent the day taunting me.

Wanting to visit somewhere new, and not just head to the roadside at the Cromlech again, i decided to check out the boulders at the Milestone Buttress. These were clear in the new Ogwen guide, unlike the now slightly dated North Wales Bouldering, so i made myself an ultimatum: if the weather holds out, i’ll bit the bullet, buy the guide and head for the rock. If not, it would be a Brenin session and generally lots of pulling on plastic! Simple.

Marilyn Monroe runs out of the roof on the left, while Boneshaker comes along the lip from the right

It didn’t rain, but i’m quite glad, as Milestone has some terrific lines. I started by flashing the three V0- problems right next to the road, although the litter on the hillside of the wall wasn’t very nice. I’d like to say this is likely to happen at any roadside venue, but it doesn’t so i decided to move a little further up the hill. Onwards to Ding Dong’s Wall V4 6b, which while not that difficult, did have a slightly tricky landing. If i’m honest, i bottled it, especially after i jumped off, the mat slipped on the wet grass and i laned in a puddle on my arse. Spotter required methinks…

So alongwards this time to Marilyn Monroe V6 7a and Bombshell V5 6c+ before deciding that if i was to do a horizontal, full stretch reach out of a poor ledge that i would probably want a spotter for that too. The landing underneath Bombshell didn’t fill me with much confidence either, and on discovering that i had left my lighter in the car, i decided to call it a day. With a wry smile at having finally found this brilliant spot, complete with plenty of good projects for a day when i can find a friend, i retired for a quick hour at Plas Y Brenin, to continue with strength training. I shall return, watch this space…


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