The Cave of Justice

After a turbulent session on the rocks the night before, I agreed to go out to the Great Orme on Sunday for some bolt clipping and a bit of bouldering. So, once we’d dispensed with the classic directions-for-the-wrong-village fiasco, with me searching Fachwen for a house in Llanrug, i eventually met Sam and we head out to Llandudno.

Parisella’s Cave is one of those places that i’m certain is not nice: a dusty cave on the outskirts of an old outdated seaside resort, next to a tourist road running around the Orme that is so polished, you can see your reflection as you drive past. However, as with so many things in life, just because it’s crap, doesn’t mean you can’t like it! My first few visits were fraught with failure and general unhappiness, not being able to route find through tricky eliminate problems and finding the fact that the roof is so excessively steep made for many unhappy hours. Eventually, after a few more trips, i found a couple of projects and now manage to pick my way through the cave with relative ease.

Sunday was mainly spent in the neighbouring Split Infinity cave to the right, mainly due to the audience and star studded climbers such as Chris Doyle, Chris Davies and Matt Heason in Parisella’s itself. I was working problems like Slim V8 and The Organ Grinder V8+ while doing the repeated traverse through the middle of the cave, first from left to right, then back at a beasty V6. Split Traverse High V7 also beckoned and i was starting to make some progress, but after a while we decided to head into the cave proper. After accidentally ticking the V8 version of Left Wall Traverse i reasoned that i should probably get it done, not to mention having another look at Rock Attrocity V9.

So all in all, two nice ticks, quite a lot of work, and some progress being made. Possibly almost as significant was that when i finished, i actually still felt quite strong and fresh! Apart from a tweaking tendon, the training seems to be going pretty well. Roll on Val Daone, less than a month to go…


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