…and then the sun shined!

It wasn’t until after we left that i noticed in the guidebook that Nudole was the first sector of the seven in Val Daone that should be visited, which is quite ironic and very true as it’s this sector that we found ourselves living in for a week and a half. As such, on Friday when the weather finally relented, it is somewhat unsurprising that this is the first spot we chose to play around.

Behind our camp was the fantastic 7b+ called Spigolo dell’anguria which i had set my sights on when we first arrived, but i decided to go exploring so we wandered off to check out the boulders on the opposite side of the lake. After a short walk, we got to Bloco 11, with amenable grades for all three of us, and discovered how beautiful the granite in this forgotten valley was. We made quick work of Figus 6a and Taccus 6b+ not to mention the 5c on the boulder as well. The rock was like a zoomed in gritstone, and with my lack of experience of granito, it was quite a shock to the system. For anyone planning on visiting, it’s worth noting that you really need to toughen up your skin and take plenty of Climb On, sandpaper and if possible, spare fingers…

After a prolonged period of sitting on the pads and enjoying the good weather, we finally got of our arses and headed over to Bloco 15, with slightly less problems, but a much nicer landing, and a lovely 7a to get stuck into. We all made short work of the spigolo to the left (although Steffi had by this point gone for a walk) and Stu set to working the opposing arete on the other side of the perfectly triangular bloc, while i plyed my trade on the just-off-vertical, thin masterpiece in the middle. This managed to take most of the day, with neither completing our respective projects, so we headed back to camp for dinner and a bonfire, although en route discovering the power of bouldering pads for carrying vast amounts of firewood, while Stu and myself carried back… a tree.

More projecting followed that evening, with my first real attempt on Dell’Anguria while Steffi and Stu began trying both the direct from my starting hold at 6b and the rising traverse to the right at 6a. I knew we were going to spend a lot of time at this bloc (we had already left the guidebook to fall apart in the rain here) so i was secretly hoping they took their time. Unfortunately that was not the case, as they both managed both problems without too much difficulty.

Saturdays forcast for the afternoon wasn’t great, so we made the most of the (short) morning by heading down the valley to check out La Plana, a forested sector were hoping would shelter us just a little. We managed to get a couple of hours in before we ran away, getting in a little crotch-ripping 6a, and a delicate yet beautiful mantle problem at 6a+.

Sunday was equally poor and we passed the time by going round and round Arco and Riva del Garda (a town, i am reliably informed, entirely populated by Germans) looking for a swimming pool to attempt to clean ourselves, and looked forward to the following day: a trip to the Sportiva factory. Yes, i am very sad.


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