Saturday 22nd June

due to a lack of WiFi while away, this is a retrospective series of blog posts from my back-to-back trips to Germany and Austria, written at the time to give a feeling on what was happening and my state of mind. 


Saturday 22nd June, 1:00pm LT, same Campingplatz

It’s been a mixed week, ups and downs and without wanting to get into my personal life too much, i wonder how much of the baggage i’ve brought with me. The car now seems to be working much better, the kids left yesterday only to be replaced with German weekend campers and this morning i was bullied off my site by some people wanting to move in. It was the worst sort of bullying too – politeness and beer being readily on offer, and after having speedily moved all my things out of the way, the proceeded to be very interested in my life, climbing and Englanders in general, before plying me with several bottles of beer for my birthday tomorrow. Bastards.

Neudorf, and one of the many scars in the area, heavily featued with pockets
Neudorf, and one of the many scars in the area, heavily featued with pockets

So the big question, surely, is did i find any climbing! Well, yes and no. The local shop in Betzenstein is an wonderful place to (unofficially) find out about bouldering spots. There is no guidebook for bouldern here, in order to discourage a detrimental effect on the local environment. A warped and twisted philosophy in my humble opinion but there we go, things seem to be near change and hopefully next time will be resolved.

But with a touch of nous and a cheap roped guide, you can find places. I’m reluctant to divulge too much in the way of specifics but needless to say, i got a couple of days in, even if they weren’t very good. That said, limestone really isn’t my thing and if i’m honest, i’m only really here as a stop off to collect Fredrik and because this place is world famous.

So now Southbound; onwards to Alpine valleys long since seen and the granite goodness held there within. Would i come back to Frankenjura? Probably but only once they’ve sorted the daft guidebook situation. As said above, this is a remarkable area, fantastic villages with wondrous architecture and generally friendly people, which is worth seeing by anyone. Ups and downs aside, i’m glad i’ve come.


P.s. On finding at 1:40pm that the reception wasn’t open again till 2:00, i took tess for a little 

walk and found two final annoyances: firstly, now it’s the weekend, the crags are awash with climbers and finding someone would be, surely, SUBSTANTIALLY easier and secondly, over the road from the campingplatz was a perfect little bouldery cave. If only i’d walked over there days ago, i’d have gome and had a play. Like i say, when it isn’t your week…

P.p.s. Just driving out of the campsite and the car tries to break down again…


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