This week’s post was delayed as last night, i went straight from work to the Cave of Justice, followed by a hasty dinner and quick film. It followed on from a session on Sunday where i once again got on Rock Attrocity V9, and loudly announced that i couldn’t possibly be closer without finishing the problem. Last night i proved myself wrong.

I know full well i’m not alone, as plenty of others have dropped the match on the last hold but that is scant consolation and i couldn’t help but wonder if my thoughts in Font of a lack of respect for the climbing had led to a level of arrogance that meant i was almost destined to fail.



After coming back from my long lasting project abroad, and the relative ease at which it relented, i had arrived on Sunday afternoon with half of my mind thinking i deserved to tick it without trouble and the other half thinking Carnage had been a fluke and not to get ideas above my station. Having not been on this for around 18 months, i was stunned to catch the crux hold first go, and to grab and pull my way through to almost the end, needing to tidy my sequence before it would go proper. Sadly, this took it’s toll and my best effort (right hand pinging, me plummeting while about to go for the final match) turned out to be the best i could muster.

I had debated about returning last night, unsure if i was rested enough, and was eventually swayed by good weather and a poor long-term forecast. More realistic than the climbing gods punishing me for thinking i was owed a tick for the sake of it is that i was actually not adequately rested after all, meaning i could get fractionally closer while still not close enough. Now my muscles no longer ache (as the act of typing would’ve been enough to cause me to wince) and i am well fed and up for it, i’ll be heading back tomorrow night.

The whole experience has left me once again in two minds: in search of good hard projects, up to and including a nice 8a for the future, while not taking for granted any success at all. After all, it was only the week before Font that i failed to get Fear of a Slopey Planet 7a in a session. So for now, i shall continue to work my way through the North Wales 7+8 list while working up to Diesel Power 8a. We’ll see how it goes and doubtless, let you know.


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