What a fucking day. My 31st is now officially the best birthday i have ever had (beating my 27th on the technicality that i met my family on the 24th of the month) and my love of Magic Wood has risen exponentially since i have arrived. The scene is amazing, the rock unbelieveable, and the success unprecedented.
It didn’t start that well, in truth, as we awoke to rain and obscure drizzle from cloudless skies. A morning in the Edelweiss, umming and ahing as to whether to head out at all. Two days of bouldering had taken it’s toll and a rest day was a tempting prospect… but how could i not get out on rock on this day of the trip?
So we went, thumping up the path with a view to having a look and not really trying much. We arrived to find three Finnish guys already on Intermezzo, one of whom seemed to flash it. (One thing to note here is that no matter how hard you’re climbing, chances are there’ll be someone else who can turn up and flash your project).
It took two goes. It would’ve taken one but i made the mistake of changing successful beta with a toe hook and stalled on the last move. Topping out, i couldn’t believe it: only my third 7c after a meagre two sessions. And on my birthday too. The rest of the climbing day didn’t involve much, any other attempts eclipsed by the success. Instead, a fantastic evening was had, chilling at the Edelweiss with good company and many happy smiles.
Granted, yesterday was significantly less successful, for me at least. Simon did manage Dropzone 7a, and solid at the grade, along with two different Finnish friends but other than that, the need for a rest day played heavy, meaning personally i managed a sum total of three moves, spread over two problems.
The evening made up for the lack of climbing, as, with the edelweiss closed for the day, there must have been some 30 people sat around the fire, all chilling, laughing and chatting until the early hours. Utterly exhausted, i positioned myself in a convenient spot at around 8pm, started the fire and sat down. I didn’t rise again for another five-and-a-half hours, thanks to Canadian kindness (which seems endless) and tactical bartering (“If you go fetch my beers, you can have one…”). I’m classing it as a tick.
So today is a “rest morning”. The days are so long that you can afford to head out late, which is exactly the plan, and i now that i feel fresh and refreshed (not to mention clean again after my second shower of the week) i am massively stoked for Dinos Don’t Dyno. It is the only problem i knew i wanted to try before coming and we haven’t been yet. Watch this space.