Dinos Wish They Could Dyno

Dinos may not dyno, but if they could try this problem, they’d wish they could. As mentioned in the previous post, this was the one problem on my to-do list, even though when i found it in my guidebook, there was a note simply saying “brutal!”

DSC05049

We finally walked up there, and i took a look at the leap. It looked huge and the first five minutes contained the repeated anouncement “fuck me, it’s a long way”. It starts low, on a good crimp, moving up into a finger jug on a flake. Then paste your feet on and jump as high as you can. The hold you’re going to couldn’t be bigger – so much so that it often rapes climbers of the skin from the fingers and palms.

The right foot is obvious, both from chalk and the size of the hold. It’s also polished as can be, so there’s no missing it but it is out right and you can’t go off that alone. My theory was to try and rock onto the right hold and do the dyno in two stages but reality soon kicked in.

DSC05150Almost as quickly, though, i found a crucial left foot. From then on it was just practising to get the distance. In truth, it didn’t take long and the landing is excellent (despite rolling off the pad on the first effort and into the dirt). Within long, i’d leaped and latched the ledge, even keeping my left hand on to kill any swing whatsoever. It was more than i could’ve hoped for and sums up the week beautifully.

Sadly, Simon didn’t manage it but did make huge progress. As we arrived, he anounced he didn’t like dynos, predominantly because he couldn’t do them. His first effort (and i hope he won’t mind me saying this) was abject; but, with a touch of coaching and some looking through photos, by the end he was tickling the edge – an outstanding achievement to gain about two feet of height in such a short time. Especially given our height differences too!

DSC05175Our Russian friend from camp, Vadim, also appeared and gave it a quick go, nailing it in an entirely different stlye to me. Where my left hand gave me some stability, Vadim went all points off and was well worthy of his tick given how much he was spinning out of control!

Eventually, Simon decided enough was enough and we moved on. Jenny 6c succumbed to us both on the second go, the flash proving elusive. Resonable moves but not the most aesthetic of lines and sadly, where at some crags it would probably warrant some stars, here the abundance of alternatives diminishes it quality. Simon’s quick send of Oliver Kante 7a i think was similar.

Now, i am home now but will continue to post as if i were there. This truly was the best trip i’ve had and the best birthday i’ve had and to wrap it all up quickly just wouldn’t do it justice. So another post or two is required. Hopefully i won’t get distracted by Welsh sunshine!

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s