Happy New Year!

I cannot find exactly where i first said about it but somewhere on here, i mentioned about the 1st January being poor as a climbers New Year. It’s right in the middle of the mid-winter season and your goals and objectives should be squarely in place and on the go by then. Maybe a quick review but resolutions for the year ahead? No, not now, just keep training.

The time to set your next goals and objectives is now: the weekend the clocks change. Twice annually, it’s the right time to assess where you’re at and plan for what’s coming. So in that spirit, here goes:

2015 Assessment

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Since this time last year, so much has changed it’s hard to imagine! Having just returned from a frankly poor trip to Font, the first ascents continued to come with Fluffion 6a+, OGYDd 6c+ and culminating in my crowning achievement: Prowess 7b. Around that time i’d also managed to step my game up a bit with an ascent of Bus Stop 7b+ in the Llanberis Pass. This was also quickly followed by Ultimate Retro Party 7b to keep the trend coming.

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Then followed the best trip to date: Magic Wood 2015. Perfect conditions, vibrant scene and some hard ticks! Intermezzo 7c, Dinos Don’t Dyno 7b and Bosna Genial 7a flash to name a couple of highlights marked my most successful trip since Font 2014 and my Carnage tick. I came back buoyed and psyched.

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And that kicked off a summer of relentless success: Fish Skin Wall 7a+, The Pinch 7a+, Original Traverse 7b on the Brenin Boulder, The Gimp 7b even a flash of Wavelength (stand start) 7b+ as now graded in the new guide. The introduction of The List this time last year inspired me to get out at every opportunity and gave me the focus and autonomy to be able to narrow it down to the best possible option, with the last hard tick of the year being Love Pie 7c.

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A dry spell followed Fredrik’s visit at the end of October (while it rained relentlessly) and so i got training in the wall, competing in the Indy Aggregate once again but not wholeheartedly as i was also training in the Mill and at Work. Oddly, the host of potential venues meant i actually did a lot less than i otherwise would but that didn’t seem to matter once i finally got out again.

February came and with it dry rock and fresh enthusiasm. Save for the occasional day (to tick Popcorn Party 7a mainly after many years) i hadn’t really been out since October so when i finally could, the List took a big hit. Johnny’s Problem 7b in the Pass, the Witches Knickers 7b and Toe Dragon into Kingdom of Rain 7b all fell within the month but the best was yet to come. Nearly two years after my first 7c, and five mixed sessions, i cracked the next grade: Jerry’s Problem V10 at Sheep Pen.

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Until i just wrote that, i didn’t realise how long i’d been on 7c as a top achievement and now, it seems silly as i’ve already been working on my first 8a! Which brings us to the next section.

2016 Spring/Summer Goals – short term

Put simply, it’s carry on as before and try to keep ticking them off The List… although thinking about it, adding the goal of “try and stop going on about the List” may not be a bad one too!

I’d quite like to concentrate on the four that remain from the inaugural version: Shocker 7b in Beddgelert Forest, Going Down On An Elephant 7b at Elephantitus Cave, Animal Magnetism V8 high above Caseg Fraith and Roof of a Baby Buddha 7c+. The latter has been the last to receive some serious attention and it’s gone well! Just need to bear them in mind during a dry spell.

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In summary:

• Keep ticking off the List
• …but stop talking about the List as much
• concentrate on the oldest four.

2016 Spring/Summer Goals – season long

Obviously knowing this was coming, i’ve been pondering this and a few weeks ago, i was hoping for my first 7c+ and maybe 8a. With recent developments, this has now changed and now sits at three 8a climbs this season/year.

I’d also quite like to get a 7c abroad. With plenty of opportunities to do this lined up for this year, it should be a distinct possibility, even though it can often take multiple sessions. It’ll take some attention to pick the right one(s) but it’s certainly attainable. If it goes quick enough, maybe 7c+ is also achievable but only time will tell on this.

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Finally, i’d like to keep going on the first ascents in Bryn Engan and create a proper topo for everything in the forest. The new guide is looking closer all the time and i’m really hoping that my lines will make the cut. Getting a sufficient circuit may be the key and there’s plenty of projects currently waiting to be cleaned and climbed.

Oh, one more thing. As my coaching develops, i’d like to take this to the next level and the next hurdle will be to obtain my SPA proper. Assessments for the Foundation and Development coach can’t happen until i have a “group management” style award and that’s the most sensible and obvious one to do.

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• Three 8a climbs
• At least 7c abroad
• More first ascents and a comprehensive topo
• SPA assessment

2016 Autumn/Winter Goals

Now that i’ve got into training a bit more and have some substantial facilities, it’s time i actually made proper use of them. Following an end-of-season review of course, the goal would be to train my weaknesses properly, develop my strengths a bit more (something i feel people should probably do a bit more – they’re the bits you’re good at, harness that!) and put some structure in place to be able to do this. It’s something i’ve never done and something that would benefit not only me personally but would be crucial to my development as a coach.

• Train weaknesses
• Develop strengths
• Create a proper training plan and stick to it!

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All of these should be perfectly sensible objectives and will push me on the way to being actually quite good. I have ideas in mind for longer term but to put them in place now would be folly – this is enough to be going at for now and thinking too far into the future risks losing sight of the short term goals.

So i’ll leave you with a Best of Psyche! greeting and wishing you all…

Happy New Year!!!

Milestones: The Birthday Tradition

This is part five of a series of posts all about the turning points in my climbing career. From single moves to huge time spans, these are the events that shaped me into the climber and person i am today. 

I’ll be posting a new one every few days so keep an eye on the blog for the latest or, if not, they will appear in one beast of an article at the end of the series. Feel free to comment and let me know of some of your own highlights, i’d greatly enjoy hearing some of your own. 

The Birthday Tradition

The campsite of the inaugural birthday trip to Val Daone

In Spain, in September 2009, with Steffi and good friend Stu Goodfellow, we met two Italians. Now, if you’ve been on a climbing trip abroad, and met people, i would wager you’ve championed your home climbing areas while listen to others try and encourage you to visit theirs. It’s one of the nicest aspects to travelling like this. In this case, Super Paolo and his girlfriend Stef were from the North Eastern corner of Italy, and an area called Val Daone.

They convinced us (it wasn’t hard) to plan a trip to see them. The next question was when. Now, i can’t for the life of me remember how we came to the decision, and i think it took a lot of faffing with dates but somewhere down the line, we arranged to go for my 26th birthday, much to the dismay of my mother. (“But you won’t have anything to open on your birthday!” she remarked. My reply: “I’ll open the door of my tent to see a beautiful Alpine valley…”)

In Austria at Sundergrund on the day i turned 29

What began is a tradition that i have managed to keep going for the following six years and counting: to spend my birthday in a different country every year. To date, the list of birthday destinations reads Italy, Canada, France, Austria, Spain and Switzerland, with next year’s trip to Finland already in the pipeline.

It is now the highlight of my year and while everything else is very flexible, this summer fortnight is not. Finding places with suitable conditions in June is proving harder and harder, especially as flying to the Southern hemisphere where it’s mid-winter is currently out thanks to costs. I’m also running out of emergency i’ve-got-no-money-this-summer options, although Ireland still remains, as do a couple of others. Sooner or later, it’ll become “…in a foreign country” instead but for now, the tradition continues good and strong, with at least next year all good to go.

Turning 30 in Spain in the middle of June turned out to be a bit hotter than expected. Evening sessions were the way forward

Back To It

So, originally we were supposed to be heading back on the Sunday but Simon was needed at a conference and so, after five days of fantastic ascents in beautiful conditions, we packed up and headed off on the second Sunday morning. A few goodbyes to some new good friends and we were heading North, at a snail’s pace but with a phenomenal mile-per-gallon for a Land Rover, for almost the entire length of Germany. Stops were infrequent, debates were vociferous and eventually, we rocked up at Simon’s house in Bonn.

It had been, as mentioned in my previous post, the best trip of my life and the best birthday i’ve ever had. At half past nine every morning, the sun would crest over the adjacent mountain and roast the tent forcing us out of bed. It turned out to be a blessing as we would then rise, socialise and get stoked for the day ahead. Topless and tea’d up, the weather was glorious every day bar one and often we would head up to the Edelweiss or head out for supplies. There was often someone on a rest day to bum around with and days that are so long that there’s no rush to get out.

And while it was hot and wonderful in the sunshine, get into the shade and the temperature plummeted to a much better level for hardcore bouldering; and that’s exactly what went down. My personal ticklist of 7s consists of a 7a flash and redpoint ascents at 7a+, 7b, 7b+ and 7c and every one is a stunning line. It’s unusual to get such a collection on a single trip and even Font, which i know very well, has never relented such as Magic Wood did. Is the venue soft? I would say so but that doesn’t mean it’s any less brilliant.

The Font portion of my trip was, admittedly, poor at best in terms of climbing but that really wasn’t the point of going and for once, i actually adjusted my activities to match the conditions. The point was to get out of town, spend some time alone, enjoy being abroad again and for that, it worked a treat. And i got a load of easier climbs done so not a complete bust.

So, after such a success and a very long drive, we pulled up at Simon’s house and within five minutes were heading out again; bound for a party down on the banks of the Rhine with some of his friends. It was a great night (including for Tess who had a whale of a time playing in the warm river) and a fitting end to our week together. Next day was spent driving through the Netherlands and a (thankfully uneventful) drive through dreaded Belgium before a twitchy time in Calais amongst immigrant unrest. Unsurprisingly reluctant to stay in the car (or worse, a tent) in the middle of rather substantial problems, i paid the extra and by evening, had turned up at my folks in Birmingham.

Another hidden bonus was my shoes. Ages ago i’d bought a pair of La Sportiva Futuras, as the leather was so amazingly soft and supple i couldn’t resist. I’d tried them a few times and found i couldn’t stick to anything in them, and had given up. At one point, i even had them up for sale but with no takers, and my trusty old Solutions at the end of their life span, i dug them out and took them with me. On the first day, Simon, in need of new shoes himself, tried my old Solutions and opted to buy them off me. This left me with the Futuras. By the end of the week, i was so sold on them, they almost became my only shoe choice (the Solutions still having pride of place with their superior heel). It’s a small plus but an important one – nearly £100 worth of important, and symbolic of how well the week went.

The downside, and it’s a slightly familiar one: a mild injury. My right knee was sore and an impromtu football match once back home did nothing to help. Some rest was needed so the idea of heading straight out on the Welsh rock would have to wait. Instead, it was back on the training wall. After a couple of sessions dangling by my fingertips and pulling up on my arms, i tried sticking my shoes on and it felt pretty good.

Meanwhile, my friend Karen had entered the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield and Saturday gone, made it through the qualifying to get into the semi-finals. Knowing what it’s like to compete at something like that completely alone, i drove over after work to support and watched the following day. Cliffhanger was great, a fantastic event and thoroughly recommended – next year you should go. Karen finished very respectfully inside the top 20 and we decided that Stanage wins over watching the finals.

The obvious crag won over and before long, we were walking into Plantation for an afternoon session. We had a blast on the Business Boulder and ticked off a  few V4s before heading up to the Green Traverse 7a. Admittedly, i’ve done it before, two different times, but the full traverse Dope On A Slope 7a+ hadn’t had a look in yet. It went, very quickly and once again, i returned home, a beaming smile on my face.

The knee is holding up and i have a appointment at the doctors this afternoon. Meanwhile, it’s time to ride the wave of success from Swizzy and work on the ticklist.

Swiss Conclusions

Magic Wood, like Zillertal, and as the name would suggest, is situated in a crozzly wood. While the trails are much better than my first visit in 2012, they are still rough, rugged and a bit trying. Through between 15-20kg on your back and trudge through this talus daily and it takes it’s toll. By the last day, the ligaments (i think) in my right knee are starting to complain and hyper extending the knee is causing major problems.

I think this is worth stressing for somewhere like here: a rest day is not simply a rest for your fingers or your skin, it’s a rest for your whole body. We didn’t really take a rest day, i had a day doing next to nothing but still walked in with my kit and in hindsight, this really took it’s toll. Everything about Magic Wood can be quite punishing (except Tomasz that is) and it’s worth bearing this in mind when you’re there for a while. I don’t normally take rest days on week long trips but next time, it’s going to be scheduled, definitely. [Incidentally, today i’m heading down to the local walk-in minor injuries hospital to get the knee checked out]

Nevertheless, by this time it was Friday and our last climbing day – not one we were going to take sitting down! Knee notwithstanding, we were both feeling pretty good and pretty strong so it was one last push for a tick or two. Typically, we started slowly, although in this case we had little choice; our schedule dictated by a 1:30 appointment with Tess at the vet. Formalities done with (by an excellent and friendly vet) and before we could hit the problems proper, there was a photo that i was super keen for. From the road, on the opposite side of the river, there’s a superb view of one of the boulders. The plan was to have me climbing a problem and Simon across the way catching snaps. While it wasn’t exactly what i had in mind, it did give a different and unusual perspective and once again, i’m indebted to Simon for the effort of doubling his walk in.

We’d agreed to meet Jaako and Raul, our two Finnish friends, and with AJ along as well, we already had a good amount of pads and spotters for the hard rising traverse of Schneebrett 7c but when we arrived, there were already some Brits from Yorkshire and another Finnish couple, giving us more pads than we could use. Even when the Brits left, they left us with their pads and four Germans arrived to give us an even softer landing. AJ succeeded, the rest persevered valiantly and i complained about my knee, now hurting quite substantially.

Eventually we succumbed to it’s difficulties and moved on, returning to Dropzone 7a but instead to try the traverse in, Hohenzone 7c. It exchanges the first tricksome moves of Dropzone with a techy and thuggy initial section, with a slightly dodgy landing in the middle thrown in. AJ and Simon battled away, Simon struggling with the initial dynamic thrutch. Meanwhile, i got onto a large adjacent block and clutched the camera.

The video of AJ came out beautifully, and is shown below, spliced together with my ascent of Dinos Don’t Dyno. It’s called Contrast at Magic Wood for various reasons: the two climbs, while similar in grade, at wildly different, one long and smooth and elegant, the other one massive move, flying through the air. Everything about these problems is different and hopefully the accompanying music supports this.

[Aside: editing the video has given me the impetus to crack on with a local showcase film on North Wales bouldering, I’ll come back to this in the next few posts]

By this point, i hadn’t actually climbed anything – a poor show for a last day, even if nursing a mild injury. Nearby, Bosna Genial 7a was mentioned at the very beginning of the guidebook section as a stand out line and i was keen to give it a bash. Two small crimps and, as it turns out, two toe hooks around a prow lead into a jug and a series of good slopers to top out. I looked at this from the floor, someone else having ticked to slopers and didn’t think the first move that far, or the starting holds too small. Pads down, sit on the floor, pull up and boom! First move campused and the rest fairly easy. A 7a flash to top off the best trip i’ve ever had.

 

Dinos Wish They Could Dyno

Dinos may not dyno, but if they could try this problem, they’d wish they could. As mentioned in the previous post, this was the one problem on my to-do list, even though when i found it in my guidebook, there was a note simply saying “brutal!”

We finally walked up there, and i took a look at the leap. It looked huge and the first five minutes contained the repeated anouncement “fuck me, it’s a long way”. It starts low, on a good crimp, moving up into a finger jug on a flake. Then paste your feet on and jump as high as you can. The hold you’re going to couldn’t be bigger – so much so that it often rapes climbers of the skin from the fingers and palms.

The right foot is obvious, both from chalk and the size of the hold. It’s also polished as can be, so there’s no missing it but it is out right and you can’t go off that alone. My theory was to try and rock onto the right hold and do the dyno in two stages but reality soon kicked in.

Almost as quickly, though, i found a crucial left foot. From then on it was just practising to get the distance. In truth, it didn’t take long and the landing is excellent (despite rolling off the pad on the first effort and into the dirt). Within long, i’d leaped and latched the ledge, even keeping my left hand on to kill any swing whatsoever. It was more than i could’ve hoped for and sums up the week beautifully.

Sadly, Simon didn’t manage it but did make huge progress. As we arrived, he anounced he didn’t like dynos, predominantly because he couldn’t do them. His first effort (and i hope he won’t mind me saying this) was abject; but, with a touch of coaching and some looking through photos, by the end he was tickling the edge – an outstanding achievement to gain about two feet of height in such a short time. Especially given our height differences too!

Our Russian friend from camp, Vadim, also appeared and gave it a quick go, nailing it in an entirely different stlye to me. Where my left hand gave me some stability, Vadim went all points off and was well worthy of his tick given how much he was spinning out of control!

Eventually, Simon decided enough was enough and we moved on. Jenny 6c succumbed to us both on the second go, the flash proving elusive. Resonable moves but not the most aesthetic of lines and sadly, where at some crags it would probably warrant some stars, here the abundance of alternatives diminishes it quality. Simon’s quick send of Oliver Kante 7a i think was similar.

Now, i am home now but will continue to post as if i were there. This truly was the best trip i’ve had and the best birthday i’ve had and to wrap it all up quickly just wouldn’t do it justice. So another post or two is required. Hopefully i won’t get distracted by Welsh sunshine!

Best Birthday EVER

What a fucking day. My 31st is now officially the best birthday i have ever had (beating my 27th on the technicality that i met my family on the 24th of the month) and my love of Magic Wood has risen exponentially since i have arrived. The scene is amazing, the rock unbelieveable, and the success unprecedented.

The place to be when not at the crag

It didn’t start that well, in truth, as we awoke to rain and obscure drizzle from cloudless skies. A morning in the Edelweiss, umming and ahing as to whether to head out at all. Two days of bouldering had taken it’s toll and a rest day was a tempting prospect… but how could i not get out on rock on this day of the trip?

So we went, thumping up the path with a view to having a look and not really trying much. We arrived to find three Finnish guys already on Intermezzo, one of whom seemed to flash it. (One thing to note here is that no matter how hard you’re climbing, chances are there’ll be someone else who can turn up and flash your project).

It took two goes. It would’ve taken one but i made the mistake of changing successful beta with a toe hook and stalled on the last move. Topping out, i couldn’t believe it: only my third 7c after a meagre two sessions. And on my birthday too. The rest of the climbing day didn’t involve much, any other attempts eclipsed by the success. Instead, a fantastic evening was had, chilling at the Edelweiss with good company and many happy smiles.

Granted, yesterday was significantly less successful, for me at least. Simon did manage Dropzone 7a, and solid at the grade, along with two different Finnish friends but other than that, the need for a rest day played heavy, meaning personally i managed a sum total of three moves, spread over two problems.

The evening made up for the lack of climbing, as, with the edelweiss closed for the day, there must have been some 30 people sat around the fire, all chilling, laughing and chatting until the early hours. Utterly exhausted, i positioned myself in a convenient spot at around 8pm, started the fire and sat down. I didn’t rise again for another five-and-a-half hours, thanks to Canadian kindness (which seems endless) and tactical bartering (“If you go fetch my beers, you can have one…”). I’m classing it as a tick.

So today is a “rest morning”. The days are so long that you can afford to head out late, which is exactly the plan, and i now that i feel fresh and refreshed (not to mention clean again after my second shower of the week) i am massively stoked for Dinos Don’t Dyno. It is the only problem i knew i wanted to try before coming and we haven’t been yet. Watch this space.

Optimism

I mentioned to someone the other day that when my climbing career eventually comes to an end, whenever that may be, Prowess will undoubtedly be one of the highlights. What i’m now hoping, after the briefest of glances at my blog the other day, is that is hasn’t trumped everything else so much that it’s left me nothing else to say!

In truth, i have been rather busy of late, with North Wales enjoying a customary early-summer spell of good weather and the subsequent evenings out and about. The long days lend themselves to long sessions, leaving little time for eating and general life stuff, let alone blogging.

Nevertheless, i’m still here and right now, here is sitting in a hammock at La Musadiere (that old faithful campsite near Mily la Foret, Fontainebleau) being eaten alive by blackfly. I arrived early this morning following the customary driving-through-the-night that makes negotiating London and Paris significantly easier. Currently alone but for my faithful canine companion, i’m here until Friday (today is Tuesday) before heading to Germany and on to Switzerland with my old Canadian friend, Simon.

Now, for none of this is history on my side: my last Font trip in March was a complete write off, my last trip to Magic Wood a disaster and the last solo trip of this nature was the worst trip of my entire life (albeit two years later giving the best story of my life but that’s not the point). As the usual stress grew in the build up, this did not help.

Things are very different this time around. Gone is the Freelander, with it’s seemingly endless list of issues and in it’s place is my trusty Defender – recently renovated with almost an entire drive train. New clutch, gearbox, transfer box, rear diff and, fitted personally during a long pit stop yesterday, a new rear prop shaft. While i can easily be reminded that issues still remain, i know exactly what they are and how to manage them. I think.

The German trip of 2013 did have the added complication of a huge lack of local knowledge of the Frankenjura during that first, tumultuous week. Not so, here, as this is a site and a forest i know only too well. If anything, i can’t decide which of my existing projects to explore this evening, as the list is as large as my ticklist at home.

Of course, last time here was blighted by illness but today i feel fit and strong. I even took heed of the issues in March by pitching camp and going straight to bed on my arrival; much to the sanguine of Tess after many hours locked in the car. Recent ticks have fallen as they had in the Spring, with Ultimate Retro Party V8 under my belt and strong progress on The Witch V7 after a session with new bouldering partner Karen and another with Ryan and Owain. Karen also accompanied me on a successful evening blast to the Braichmelyn, including a repeat of the V5 line (whose name escapes me) and the V6 variant. I’ve even managed all the moves on Original Traverse V8 – the last remaining line on the convenient Brenin boulder. In short, i am in good form and feeling fresh.

As for Magic Wood, last time was a distinct lack of psyche due to poor research. High in the mountains, the temperature is not forgiving in the steep sided valley and following last summer’s sweat-fest in Spain, i suddenly realised maybe the cold places would be better in June, and the hot ones in November, rather than the other way around as i have done before…

And there is the factor of personnel. With no disrespect at all to my great friend, Mad Jim, who accompanied me on that frozen voyage, a lack of amenable and achievable grades did add to the misery somewhat, sapping psyche and making a bad situation slightly worse. Simon was working projects here with me in March, as well as climbs in North Wales and Canada so sitting under the same piece of rock should keep us both happy. Granted i’m not there yet but there is certainly cause for optimism this time around.

Of course, this is merely day one: not yet the time to crack open the bubbly and announce a successful trip. Nevertheless, other ill fated voyages have often had little hints at the beginning – the car trouble with the Freelander actually started in Oxford! The Defender is running beautifully, the best it has since it’s acquisition and i certainly feel in fine fettle. Apart from the black flies. Really hope they’re not poisonous…