For those who don’t know, my new year runs from when the clocks go forward, giving a much better point of the year for resolutions and goal setting. There is also a Solstice when the clocks go back. For more information, click here.
The number of people I speak to about this whole New Years/Solstice thing who immediately go “Oh that’s a good idea!” always makes me smile.
The problem I have now, though, is that because I’ve found this ideal time to schedule various different jobs, this weekend has suddenly exploded with things I need to get done. Blog posts, course dates, goal setting with clients, the list is not insubstantial; so much so I actually have a list on the computer of everything I need to do very soon.
Still, one thing I have realised this past season is to make sure I’m looking after me as much as trying to crack on with other work stuff and being as this is effectively my own personal goal setting, it is an important thing to prioritise. Besides, everything else happens around now, not necessarily on the day itself.
And so to celebrate my annual Solstice and in so doing, remind myself of the journey of the past six months. Because without those reflections every now and again, the road can seem very long.
Season Review
I love this bit. I mean, I completely underestimate it at first and then as I scroll down on blog posts, Instagram pictures and 27 crags records, and keep scrolling, I suddenly remember half of the point of this whole exercise: to remember what I’ve done this season, however ridiculous they were…
Indeed, we do begin in Scotland on what is becoming our big Easter trip. Glen Coe was the destination of choice and as the caption of the above Instagram post suggests, it didn’t exactly start well. I mean, we had some lovely walks around the area and certainly made the most of it but with the threat of eviction, dead van batteries, and various other trials and tribulations, it was a bit of a challenging start. Even once I found climbing, it didn’t go that great.
But it was funny and I can’t suggest anything other than the fact both the Cameron Stone and Heather Hat in Glen Nevis are first rate and worth a visit for anyone.
Back home again, it seemed there was some malaise settling in but in hindsight, it looks like plenty went down! Not to mention some much needed relaxation of the relentless work push that had gone on for four years previously. June seemed to be the beginning of my first real rest from Prowess in four years and it was much needed. I’ll be trying to find that balance more and more from now on.
Before that, though, was what felt a huge moment for my professional development. Friend and top-class coach, Andy Swann often warns not to be a “lone wolf” and so having the opportunity to spend some time mixing with others at a similar level at the GB Climbing Coaching Conference was fantastic.
I would later be very glad of this conference and the people met there when, after a long period of quiet, the first public Performance Coach Award began. I was so thrilled and honoured to be included, even if I had stacked the deck working for Mountain Training not long before on the Mental Skills workshops. It turned out there were a lot of familiar faces on that first day in Manchester from this very conference. And one person who I’d begun to befriend who was in attendance at both was Ben Brooks; a man who is rapidly becoming a good friend.
And then I had a birthday. I mean, I kinda do wish I’d give up on this ridiculous idea (although not as much as my partner does) but at the same time, it is really cool to try and challenge myself to make things happen. Still, to cite myself, “I’ve totally screwed myself over“. There’s so much pressure there now that unless I can make something work and have an amazing day, I feel like I’ve failed.
This one was, quite honestly, a failure. My first big failure really since the tradition began. While I’ve had low-key birthdays in the past few years, this one felt like there was an opportunity to make something of it that I missed.
It required me to grab the bull by the horns more and, ironically for me, be a bit more selfish. In hindsight, I should’ve dropped the kids off and disappeared to Northumberland for the night. Now that would’ve made the list! However a brief and drab, almost-solo, frantic drive to Helsby in the drizzle seems a lowlight.
A flurry of local days out followed before another family trip, this time up to the Lake District and with my parents along too! It was another great week, with biking and walking abound. And of course, with a nice adult:kids ratio, the chance for me to escape for a couple of evenings…
There was a bit of faff on the first outing, with our intended destination of Thirlmere unexpectedly blocked by a closed road and thus, a reduced session at Carrock Fell. However after a sense that I was struggling with outdoor climbing more than usual, this felt like I was getting back into the swing of things a little more.
The second night was more sprung on me, with Em offering to look after the girls while I went to play. I spent a day pondering where would be dry before realising the obvious: the Bowderstone stays dry in the rain… And it’s not like I’ve exhausted everything I have to do on there!
More rock mediocrity ensued after I got back, including a poor stop off at Churnet on the way to Manchester for Performance Coach Training day 1. But then came an outdoor bouldering streak to rival many of the past few years.
If much of the season has been me struggling to succeed on rock, the past couple of months have seen it all come to fruition. Two 7a and two 7a+ in the Pass at Pacman and Cwm Glas Bach, a great day at Gardoms at last with another 7a, a repeat of Roohan 7b at the Garreg and a stack of good lines climbed at the Cost of Living Boulders have all made it feel like I’m coming back to my best for the first time in years. And all of those (bar one) have been among some brilliant people.
I know I’m coming into the typical winter, indoor season but I don’t really want to stop the outdoor climbing. This September has also seen my youngest, Hannah, begin school full time and it feels I’ve now got so much more time not only to work but to play. Yes, I’ve got plenty of work to do both in and on the house but hopefully, I can still find some time to get out and keep climbing. It is, after all, what I dearly love to do.
Throughout all of this personal development has been coaching sessions, FUNdamentals courses and a fair few training courses. There’s been the relentless and fantastic ping, ping, ping of WhatsApp group chats going off almost every day, with genuinely top coaches from across the country messaging with questions or suggestions.
I feel my coaching has very definitely developed hugely over the past season. It’s handy really as this past week has felt a very momentous one: it is the end of my last part-time, non-coaching related job. That’s it, I’m on my own now, using Prowess to make ends meet!
Thankfully I have a burgeoning reputation, I’m currently embarking on the top climbing coaching award in the country and my expansion into coach education courses is going well. Meanwhile, I’m making headway on my first coaching book; taking this ability to waffle among a vague theme into my professional life [not entirely true, with dozens of articles now published in various places over the past few years]. I’m hoping the Goal Map book will hit the shelves early in the New Year. Optimistic, yes, but then so was starting this business in the first place and that’s gone pretty well over four short years.
Previous Season Goals
- Goal: 8a
- The List
- Climb with other people!
- Build Summer work
- Kids outdoor climbing
- Birthday tradition?
- Anything else?
How Did It Go?
Yeah, yeah, Goal: 8a. Moving on…
The List has had some progress, with a piece of paper kicking around somewhere in the office with a massive stack of boulder problems on there. Yet it hasn’t made it onto the whiteboard, so it doesn’t really count. Job half-finished on this one I think. It is now in the kitchen though.
There has been one subtle change. Where before, there were about a dozen problems with various grades, aspects and so on, now I’ve gone hard on the guidebook and made a much bigger list. There’s talk of us leaving North Wales – or at least Llanberis – in the not-too-distant future and whether it happens or not, I feel I want to complete as much as the projects here as possible before we do. With a potential end-point in sight for my time here, it felt time to go all out and increase The List.
One thing I have done very successfully this season is climb with other people and it’s been amazing! Browsing my records of tick lists, more than half have been with someone else, with four of the past five all being in company of other climbers. Granted, plenty of this season’s sessions were alone but part of that is simply necessity; like while away in Scotland or en route to a work event for example. Where it’s been possible, it seems I’ve put the effort in and have had a much nicer time as a result.
Summer work still requires some effort for me to be comfortable and confident that I can make it through the year successfully. Taking August off (or ‘work light’ as it’s become known) has made a huge difference to my mental state and will likely happen again moving forward. Writing my book will also help. However I still need to crack on to make sure I’m generating enough work to be okay. This year, of course, I’m all in.
Kids outdoor climbing didn’t really take off and to be honest, I forgot that was on there. But then it’s not like we’ve been sat around and neglected it, it would’ve been tough to try and fit it in! And we have started more regular indoor sessions now the days have lined up better, which will be a start. Pushing that back to next year seems a good idea, as long as I remember.
Then finally we come to the Birthday Tradition. After the high of last year, this was the first since 2008 that really fell completely flat. Efforts were made, yes, but they were poor at best and should’ve been better. The opportunity was there and I needed to be more proactive, with a missed chance to head to Northumberland gone begging.
It’s hard to be too upset, as I’ve had fifteen years of largely brilliant and unforgettable birthdays. Still, there’s lessons to be learnt there and I suspect this will be a regular struggle every year for some time.
Oh and I’ve no idea why it says “anything else?” there. I suspect I forgot to remove it while editing the post…
Next Season Goals
And so, after the look back comes the look forward [thinks: “Oo! nice line! I might steal that for my book…”]
As above, it seems silly to let go of the momentum and forget about outdoor bouldering just because the season has changed. Historically, yes, as evening sessions weren’t possible from now on, but my circumstances have changed. I can’t do evening sessions now anyway, as I’m either working or with the kids, so why not target outdoor daytime sessions as and when circumstances like availability and weather allow?
That being said, it is now aggregate season and I do really enjoy them. Equally, they are brilliant training for me to get strong for Spring, so I don’t want to forget about them entirely.
Instead, it’s about finding a balance and that’s why I’m aiming for the slightly odd number of 88% completion across both competitions this year. It’s not simply a case of having a minimum to hit, I’m going to try and get as close to that number as possible i.e. not exceed it massively by simply trying to climb everything.
That should give me the time to train properly too. My lower back is in a bit of trouble right now after building campervan conversion kits all summer, while Lily Pwd-Pwd has trashed my right knee and my elbows/fingers are aching too. I could go on, needless to say if I want to keep this going long term, I need to get healthy and not just strong. Swimming regularly with Arfon Masters club will help too, offering some decent conditioning and making sure I’m not putting all my eggs in one basket.
As mentioned, I really want to get this book published. Apart from easing some of the financial strain (hopefully at least) I feel this is the point I’m at now. I feel I’ve got things to offer a developing industry and that I’ve got things to say. Moreover, I feel like people want to listen too. Which is, I’ll be totally honest, really weird. Good but weird.
Finally, as excited as I am about being on the Performance Coach cohort, I know it’s going to require a monumental effort to pass the assessment. However I don’t want to leave it to linger for years, as many do with these kind of assessments. I genuinely think having this award could open some doors for me and it would be nice to get it done sooner rather than later. Targeting it now rather than letting it slide into the background will require some dedication but it’s something I’m more than happy to do.
- Continue to boulder outdoors and up Top Ten Average grade to at least 7b
- 88% aggregate completion with emphasis on Indy climbs
- Train. Like actually train, especially conditioning antagonists
- Swim
- Finish writing The Goal Map and publish
- Finish Performance Coach?
It’s difficult to summarise both the past season or the next one. It feels like speedy progress and yet like everything is ticking along. My relentless work ethic seems to be helping and hindering but these brief reflective periods are helping me to stay grounded, remember how well everything is going and keep striving. Winter often feels a bit like hunkering down and waiting for the better weather but I have a feeling I might look back at this season in years to come as a big one. Hopefully anyway.
chezdelabloc 