It’s a Long Way to Longridge

Apr 19, 2022 chezdelabloc Leave a comment

I’d only just left the village, less than two miles from home and i couldn’t help but wonder – and please excuse the language here – what the fuck am i doing?!

What was i doing? Embarking on a two-and-a-half hour drive to Lancashire to go bouldering. A 250 mile round trip. On the face of it, it was ridiculous, expensive and completely unnecessary. After all, how many outstanding crags and venues was i about to sail past before arriving at a piece of rock to clamber around on? Literally dozens. And while others have often waxed poetic about the magic of Craig y Longridge, purchased by the BMC back in 2007 after a dispute with the landowner, i personally never really saw much of an appeal for a seeping scar that i’d visited before such problems circa 2004.

The answer is that there is a huge amount of context to offer explanation to the insanity: a quick revisit after unfinished business two weeks prior; meeting a friend somewhere i knew he’d love; exorcising more demons from those formative years; and a need for new venues to hit that magic 1000 problems goal.

Another Triumphant Return

A mere two days following my New Year’s post, I had the opportunity to attack one of the goals for the season when i was asked to drop my dad off in Blackburn. Realising that Craig y Longridge was only round the corner, it seemed too good an opportunity to pass up.

And so, after a faffy start where my urgency – i had to be back for work at 5pm – was not clear, i pulled up somewhere that evoked a mix of memories and emotions. Craig y Longridge is often thought of as another of those hardcore British venues, encapsulated by this passage from Niall Grimes’ Boulder Britain:

As such, much as with other North West venues of the Bowderstone and the Shleter Stone at Trowbarrow, Longridge was somewhere where my delicate self-assessment during my undergraduate years refused to allow me to partake. I’ve talked before about exorcising the demons from my youth, both on this website and as a guest writer for Chalkbloc, and there aren’t that many left now. Longridge wasn’t in the same bracket but certainly felt like somewhere i was most definitely not good enough.

However on arrival, i couldn’t fathom out why this place had put me off so much in the past as i was immediately confronted with a series of 4s on which to begin, not to mention a long series of problems in the 5s and 6s; a fact made all the more baffling by the fact that i have actually visited before. It’s amazing how preconceptions can colour one’s view of reality.

Things have changed and more than somewhat. On that sole visit, the much-documented access problems were yet to reach fruition and the land had not yet been sold and developed. Back then, the scar faced a view across Lancashire countryside and towns in the distance. Not any more, as i arrived not to the view of fields, flora and fauna but of new build houses and a woman in her kitchen doing the washing up. Now, i feel i’m intruding into someone’s back garden (you very nearly are at Longridge, with only the briefest of fences keeping the boundary) in the oddest of settings imaginable.

Still, Longridge is not the destination of choice if you’re after a nice view and never has been. A man-made crag that has always lacked the aesthetics of countless others, you come to Longridge for the climbing; either straight ups or long traverses, whatever your poison. Not being a huge fan of sideways climbing, i was here for the former. And i managed them aplenty.

Despite the short amount of time (i’m not actually sure how long i had but it was not measured in hours) i quickly climbed a whopping 16 lines, up to 7a and had a very good stab at Grow Wings sit start 7b; which would’ve fallen had i had just a little more time. And therein we find the planted seed that drew me back so soon, despite multiple other options that would have ticked almost as many boxes.

Round Two

It seems that Grimes’ description doesn’t take into account the change in style of rock climbers over the past twenty years. Where old hands like Grimes and myself are more accustomed to climbs that challenge us technically and mentally, now there exist a crop of young heavyweights skilled in what is oft called “gym climbing”. And oddly, the steep boards that have become standard fare for climbers worldwide these past few years have trained climbers exactly for venues like Longridge.

It struck me that my friend and bouldering superstar Jack Pearce would love the place. Not only that but on form, he’d mop up, more than capable of climbing all but a small handful of lines. And so i told him, touted the idea of a return and a small crew of cohorts keen to win some ‘easy’ ticks somewhere new.

Only he wasn’t around, being away in Scotland sampling the unknown joys of bouldering north of the border. I put the idea to the back of my mind, only for him to contact and suggest a meet on his drive south. Hesitant at now having to foot the fuel bill alone, i threw caution to the wind and agreed. We would meet at Longridge.

I was early but that gave me chance for another blitz of easier lines and surge towards that 1000 problem goal with another 16 climbs taking my fortnight haul to a scarely believable 32 problems and a huge step towards my goal. This time, though, was slightly more substance over simple mileage and where my first foray included 11 problems up to 5+, the increased time available meant only three of the same grade or lower this time around. What’s more, where before i made it from the left end to Grow Wings, this time i made it to the end of the crag. And there are some cracking lines there!

Sadly, both Jack and myself were nursing finger injuries, rendering our chances severly dented and blocking either of us from properly committing to the moves. What’s more, and is probably more irritating, is that despite perfect conditions in March, the crag was seeping in all the wrong places in April; again meaning many of the problems became at best significantly harder and at worst, impossible to try.

Even so, i came back having found some outstanding movement on a rock type i have not played on in many years, with circles around Big Marine, Push to Prolapse, In Excess, Fertile Delta, Delta Force, Ping and Missing Link to add to the sit start project from round one. It would appear that the more i go to Longridge, the more i find to go back for. Just a shame it’s a five hour round trip. Not that i think that will stop another return in the not too distant future.

Important Note

I would be remiss not to mention the specific access conditions to climbing at Craig y Longridge. The following has been copied from the BMC Regional Access Database (RAD):

“The BMC purchased this crag in 2007 and climbers can now enjoy unhindered access. However, a code of practice has been agreed to prevent disturbance to the houses below the crag. Please respect out neighbors and follow the crag code of conduct:

No access before 10am or after 9pm (or sunset if earlier)
Take your litter home with you
No vehicles on site
No dogs
No radios or music
Do not use the area as a toilet
Respect our neighbours
No activities other than rock climbing
Fixed equipment for the rarely climbed routes on the right side of the crag has not been placed by, and is not maintained by the BMC. Climbers should excercise their own judgement on whether fixed equipment is reliabile, as on any other crag.”

For further information, please click here

Goal: 8a, Local Excursions, New Years Resolutions

Happy New Year: March 2022

Mar 27, 2022 chezdelabloc Leave a comment

For those who don’t know, my new year runs from when the clocks go forward, giving a much better point of the year for resolutions and goal setting. There is also a Solstice when the clocks go back. For more information, click here.

It’s been a funny few years for us all but the nature of these seasonal goals seems to have accentuated the effect. The Brexit vote from back in 2016 has slowly changed the country. The pandemic then shut the world down and affected us all. Now Russia is flexing her muscles in an attempt to expand the old empire; a fact that is and will continue to have consequences for us all here in the West of Europe. And that’s not even to mention the escalating and absurd cost of living and the countless other life-changing events of the last few years.

And yet, life seems to be slowly coming back to what we would once have known as normal. While i don’t wish to get in to a huge social commentary, nor to become too narcistic and focus the world around myself, both the global situation and my own personal circumstances are completely intertwined; as is true of all of us. The trick is to understand the relationship and how to use it to move forward productively.

And therein lies the key. Pay it too much heed and the news will engulf you to the point where you simply hide, such is the horror of humanity. Pay it not enough and any plans, dreams and aspirations and doomed to failure from the offset.

Of course, any look forward should begin with at least a glance behind; just think of driving lessons! But where before any looks to the future were hidden behind a cloud of uncertainty, now the path is clearing. So let’s have a look at the past season, before coming up with a plan for the future.

Season Review

For one reason or another, i seem to have spent almost the entire winter season indoors. I mean, they’ve been good reasons – weather, competitions, the desire to earn money to be able to afford food – but either which way, it’s meant i’ve not really got out much. Hence the lack of blog posts (or that’s my excuse and i’m sticking to it).

That’s not necessarily been a bad thing. The first and foremost reason for my hermitude has simply been work. When my part-time joinery job finished for the winter, there was a worry that i’d not make ends meat but i managed to land a position as a research assistant for an upcoming publication called Climb Smarter, alongside freelance instruction and private coaching. When that was submitted just before Christmas, the worries came back but as December became January, the freelance work exploded and i found myself working indoors more and more. Then last month, all of a sudden, my private coaching work went through the roof. All of which meant i spent a vast percentage of my time this winter in the indoor wall.

That being said, i have escaped a few times and already, my average for the year isn’t looking too unhealthy. There was nothing new ticked at the back end of the year, after some failed attempts at Rock Atrocity Wobbly Block 7c+ but the start of 2022 saw James Slater tempt me over to North East Wales and Ruthin Escarpment for some limestone action. Incredibly productive, i climbed ten different lines, up to and including Cassius Clay 7a+.

Other nice little sessions have included on the shores of Llyn Ogwen and PMT 7a+ as well as a short little hit in Cwm y Glo to climb Choo Choo 6c, Platform Dau 6c+ and Station Arete 6b flash. Climbs i’ll remember forever? No but good to build that bit of momentum and transfer that indoor time back outdoors again.

Looking back at it now, that’s been incredibly useful for my seasonal goals.

Previous Season Goals

Goal: 8a
Average 85% aggregate completion
Yearly Average above 7b
The Process Book
Develop Prowess Coaching
Swim

How Did It Go?

Let’s start with the positives. As the previous section alluded to, developing the Prowess Coaching business suddenly went very well indeed. Some brief calculations showed that, excluding people geographically incapable of doing so, 70% of people who booked one session booked a second; a phenomenal return. The reputation is burgeoning, both of the business and of myself and i’ve found several people wanting to shadow my sessions.

To be honest, it got to the point where i was wondering whether to sack off all the other work and try this full time but in the end, i’ve opted against it. Contrary to popular belief, most of my work is indoors and i’m still not sure how a good summer season will go. I’ve got some CPD workshops in the pipeline for Mountain Training and possibly even the British Mountain Guide Association on teaching outdoor bouldering so we shall see where we stand next year.

As for the bouldering aggregate, i totally nailed it. 85% is easily doable, possibly even a little low considering the grades and my abilities but it is deliberately set at that point as it only takes one small injury or a week away and suddenly any higher becomes unobtainable. What’s more, that added pressure can lead to injury if you’re not careful and even without going too mad this winter, the sheer volume of climbing has led to some overuse niggles. I mean, it’s something absurd like 800 climbs completed since the start of October. That gives an overall percentage of 93.2%.

Can’t complain at that! And while i’ve repeatedly stated that i’m not in it to win it, i’m not gonna complain if i do… and it looks like i will. For both. Updated ranking tables have not been forthcoming lately (and often aren’t reliable when they do, given people often don’t update their sheets regularly) but from the info i have, it seems i’m mostly out of sight of any competitors.

Then it starts to get a little less enthusiastic. I have written for the book but if i keep on at the rate i am, it’ll be decades before it’s completed. A more concerted effort is required. Likewise with swimming, i did give it a good go but work appeared on Thursday evenings meaning it simply wasn’t possible. I’m hoping to pick it up again but it’s very much a wait and see job. Nothing i can do about that.

As for averaging 7b last calender year, despite a late rally to get the grade up, the climbs i tried didn’t relent and i came up short. Circumstances may have conspired against me – including the global situation at large, he says sounding very melodramatic – and the situation may well be perfectly reasonable; i pushed myself much closer to the 1000 problems mark for example. But i’ll forever look at that dip on my annual grade, see the lowly 7a+ and feel a little disappointed.

And then there’s Goal: 8a. This is the most mixed of the results. While it’s been in the back of my mind this season, it’s not really affected the way i climb or train at all; the training has pretty much exclusively been mileage through the aggregate. In this respect, once you apply the SAID Principle, it’s not been good training at all and i’m no closer than i was six months ago.

However i am stronger, fitter and, fatigue aside, better prepared to attack my long term project head on now. The aggregates may not have given me much in the way of specific strength gains but as Dave Noden said to me, they give a good base level of fitness. The trick now is to take that and build on it.

Next Season Goals

It’s time to really go for it on Goal: 8a. I’m kinda feeling that it’s running it’s course and while there’s clearly no end date on a project like this, there does come a point where it’s simply not gonna happen without committment. Writing it down every season is one thing but if i really want it to happen, i’m gonna have to actually try.

With that in mind, i heard something very interesting on the Training Beta podcast recently. I’m not norally one for these types of thing but i listened to two recently, the latter being on goal setting. The sentence that struck me went something along the lines of:

It seemed like such an epiphany. For much of this process, i’ve wanted it to be done but haven’t engaged in the process. So now is the time to actually commit to training specifically for this. I’m going to recruit some help to set up a six week strength training programme to target the weaknesses i have to climb Sway On.

https://www.podbean.com/media/share/dir-bag3j-12c058ca?utm_campaign=w_share_ep&utm_medium=dlink&utm_source=w_share

But at the same time, i still want that average higher and still want to hit that 1000 problems. I’m so close, it would be a shame to ignore it. In order to hit both of these, i need to resurrect the white board of projects.

All that being said, i really don’t want to lose the momentum gained through the coaching business. As above, i’m still not sure what the summer will hold and unusually, mine seems to be a climbing instructional business based primarily indoors, not out. Still, i need to keep it in mind and build where i can. And of course, keep writing on the book! If i haven’t got any clients, at least i can further the business this way instead.

There’s talk in the house – very promising talk – of a summer Font trip and, whisper it quietly, even for my birthday. That would be a real coup and wasn’t even my idea! I knew i was marrying the right woman.

Finally, the kids have shown enormous enthusiasm for climbing lately, especially Hannah. And they’re good, they’re really good. Climbing on the kid-friendly elephant recently, Hannah couldn’t quite reach the jug hold so instead crimped on the edge of the hold instead. And if that wasn’t enough, when bumping her foot up, did a textbook smear on the wall. And i didn’t teach her that! So either she’s been having some expert coaching on the side or she’s really developing amazingly on her own. Knowing her as i do, she’s found it out on her own.

Goal: 8a and a six week training plan
Ressurect the White Board of Projects
1000 problems
Continue to coach, including bouldering workshops
The Process book
Font trip
Take kids climbing

It’s not quite now or never (it’s never never) but i feel like if i don’t give these goals my all this season, it might be time to take a different approach. So let’s give it everything and see how well i can actually do when i try.

Happy New Year!

Days out, Local Excursions

Progress

Mar 24, 2022 chezdelabloc Leave a comment

The glorious weather has returned to North Wales and just in time for me too. After a couple of false starts to this year’s outdoor bouldering season, this week saw me at Clogwyn y Bustach with a very mixed session that didn’t exactly yield the return i was hoping for but did have some major successes. And right on cue for New Year’s as well.

A Mixed Session

With New Year’s this weekend, i’ll keep this post nice and concise. That said, i would’ve felt remiss if i hadn’t posted about my latest outdoor excursion of the season before a fresh start. Especially as it’s set things up nicely from here on in.

Finally, this week, I had a day off with good weather. After a meeting in the morning, the sun was beating down and the temperature unseasonably high. A day in the sunshine on a day like this would’ve been quite intense and as it had been like this for a few days, i knew that many of the usually wet spots would’ve dried out by now. Thinking i was being clever, i opted to neglect my recent stomping grounds of the Ogwen and Carneddau and head a little south to Clogwyn y Bustach and some sheltered woodland to keep me shaded.

What i forgot is that despite the summery conditions, this Spring is still young; so young in fact that there are still no leaves on the trees. So no matter how many trees there are – they are all deciduous in these woods – there is still very little shade. The Bustach, for once, offered no more cover than any other mountain crag.

Still, the aspect remained favourable and the face i had in mind did indeed find itself largely in the shade. I’d managed to rig up a new system to allow me to carry in even more pads. I’ve had early season sessions at the Bustach before and struggled with the topout so the extra pad would certainly come in handy. And of course, the new rig, while very heavy, was a coup in of itself.

Climbing Things

In the end, i left with only the 6b+ warm up and Fagin 7a as retro flashes and a speculative version of Rudder’s Wall 7b ticked off in the guidebook. The decription is fairly clear in that it defines the starting holds and says to go straight up, trending leftwards slightly at the lip to top out. Instead, i ended up with a big crossover move for my right hand before heading further left to finish off. There’s no doubting i didn’t complete the original route, instead completing some kind of Rudder’s Wall-Bustach Gut hybrid and if i’d done the extra first move (which isn’t significantly harder than the other moves) i’d probably be slightly more satisfied. That said, i’m happy enough.

But that doesn’t tell the whole story. The old worries of the topout on Fagin – not to mention recent struggles committing to moves on Bombshell at the Milestone – were not repeated and i clambered over the top of the boulder with confidence multiple times. It wasn’t the smoothest topout i could’ve managed and i’m slightly nervous to watch the video back to see me gibbering around a bit but on the whole, i was more than happy with the fear levels. It’s amazing what difference a well placed pad makes.

The other win: I pushed myself on something new and indeed did come away with at least one new tick. Meanwhile, I recitified what had been the softer and slightly easier 6c+ start to Fagin by doing it properly. And if it hadn’t been for fatigue, i think Bustach Gut 7b would’ve gone too.

All in all, it was a mixed session but one that carried much more weight than either of my previous two days out in recent weeks and hopefully sets me up nicely for a season of sends.

Local Excursions

Milestone Malaise

Mar 3, 2022 chezdelabloc Leave a comment

For long time readers, no this isn’t a return of the Milestone series, this post relates specifically to a nearby venue, Milestone Buttress and the bouldering to be found therein. It’s a crag I’ve been to a couple of times recently and one which has yielded, well, next to nothing for me. Last week wasn’t a great week.

The Milestone Buttress

First let’s take a quick look at this specific crag. Situated at the foot of iconic North Walean mountain, Tryfan, the Milestone juts out on the west face of the mountain among a mountainside of craggy terrain; it would be easy for the uninitiated not to realise it’s exact position. Steeped in trad climbing history, the routes on the crag proper are well versed in heritage and quality and while they don’t see the traffic that the mountain’s north ridge will find, still sees plenty of traffic throughout the year.

Nestled underneath is a boulder field and herein lies further quality for the pebble-wrestlers among us. Yet despite three-star lines such as Marilyn Monroe 7a, Harvey Oswald 7a and Tormented Evaporation 7a, the bouldering here is oft overlooked. The first edition of Boulder Britain – the excellent nationwide bouldering guidebook by Niall Grimes – didn’t see fit to include the Milestone Buttress boulders among the hundreds of crags (although this oversight was corrected for the second edition released in 2020).

Much of this may stem from the typical problem facing most North Wales’ bouldering venues: the problems are simply too strung out. And yet while this doesn’t seem to be a problem for the Wavelength circuit or Sheep Pen, scrabbling through the talus field at the foot of Tryfan seems to be a little too much for some.

And it’s a real shame. In the Pit alone, there exist a dense collection of excellent lines between 6c+ and 7c that rivals anywhere locally and there’s always the allure of a growing number of satellite problems too. After years of falling into the same trap of heading anywhere but the Milestone, it was these satellites I wanted to explore last month in the hope I’d missed some secret stunning lines; especially given the quantity of climbing in the most recent North Wales Bouldering guidebook from Ground Up Productions.

All of this is perception, of course, albeit not without some evidence; the idea that the bouldering at Milestone Buttress isn’t worth bothering with is at least in some part linked to previous sessions that have yielded very little in the way of climbs i’ve either enjoyed or wish to return to. Nevertheless, it is always wise to challenge long held and negative perceptions periodically. If the perception proves right, it becomes more cemented in one’s mind but if it was wrong, it can open up whole new worlds. It was because I didn’t like Italians back in 2010 that I wanted to go to Italy, to challenge that preconception and in so doing, I did indeed meet some fantastic people. So perhaps it was time to give the Milestone another go.

Some Company From an Old Friend

That all makes it sound like some well thought out plan but if truth be told, the impetus for this venue choice wasn’t entirely my own. A friend had asked to come and shadow some coaching sessions of mine and with some time to spare, we decided to meet at the crag. He suggested the Lunar Bloc.

Yet I decided to arrive early and wander the crag to check out the satellite problems near the more established Marilyn Monroe/Pit areas. After having a wander but not pulling on to anything, not to mention noticing the time and realising i needed to go meet Jay, i traipsed across country to head for the Lunar Bloc. It would’ve paid to read the guidebook closer…

After a long period of fighting through heather, uneven ground and awkward rocky scrambles, it eventually became apparent that i was better off going back to the van and starting again. In truth, it was lucky that i did, as that’s where i bumped into Jay. From there, with time ticking on, we trudged up the correct path this time, in search of the Lunar Bloc.

We eventually found the Orion Bloc instead… which is much higher up the hillside than we’d intended. Committed and determined, we dropped back down the hillside, Jay taking a slip and getting a wet backside in the process, before eventually finding the Lunar Bloc fully equipped with it’s own private stream running right under the landing. With around an hour left before we needed to depart, we gave it our best shot even if some routes were impossible due to holds so dirty than fingertips were covered in mud on the crimpy handholds.

At one point, Jay fell from the first move of one problem, missed the pad whereby his pointed toe nosedived into the mud up to his ankle. It was at this point we decided we’d had enough fun for one day.

Take Two

My next opportunity to get out actually came about a week later and not wanting to be shut down too much – and having seen some tempting lines on the previous wander – i went back for a second bite at the cherry. Erm, yeah, it was much the same…

Tormented Evaporation 7a was tempting but required more pads than i had ideally and didn’t qualify for the “try something hard condition” i’d put on myself beforehand
Jack Pearce’s new addition by the road, Last Dregs 7b+ looked very exciting but much like the Lunar Bloc, has an incredibly soggy landing. It has gone on the list though

Video including Jack Pearce’s new line Last Dregs 7b+

Both Hustled 7b+ and Fiddled 7c up and left of the existing boulder problems drew my attention but both seemed brutal and the landings did not look appealing for a solo session
The Prow 7b just out the back of the Marilyn Monroe bloc really grabbed my attention but after a concerted effort at looking confused, appears to be missing a hold and thus is now considerably harder than 7b. Or at least that’s what i’m telling myself after studying the guidebook and hanging with my feet above my waist wondering where the fuck to go from there

Thrilled by the prospect of another session with zero reward, i figured i’d repeat Bombshell 6c+ and perhaps even tick off The Troll 7a; the direct finish through a fierce right hand crimp. And yet, on pulling on to the wall, i found myself getting nowhere. Even repeating old easy lines was proving impossible and my morale was plummetting. Fairly quickly, i realised the issue was psychological and that my feet were coming down before my hands were realeasing but try as i could to commit to the moves, it came to no use. Even pulling on the finishing moves with the prospect o an enormous jug to hit wasn’t enough to get me to actually fly; my mind continually shut down by the landing.

In my defence, the landing is sloping, rocky and i only had one pad but nevertheless, this is a weak argument at the best of times. More likely, i’m simply rusty and this was a poor place to get back into outdoor bouldering after a winter primarily spent indoors.

To add insult to injury, after admitting defeat on a lowly 6c+, i thought i’d try Einstein 7b on the boulder below… only to find i couldn’t do the first campus move. With a grand total of three climbs all either 3 or 3+ all day and a tail firmly wedged between my legs, i trudged off home. But at least the dog got out for a walk.

Goal: 8a, Local Excursions

All About the Long Game

Jan 11, 2022 chezdelabloc Leave a comment

Sometimes you can’t hide from who you truly are. Three hours to spare, glorious day outside and what do I find myself doing but sat in a windowless room, eating my lunch and watching a climbing film. I felt like I was 21 again, not sure in a good way or not.

It turned out to be exactly what I needed to see, in so many ways.

The Situation

Three hours to spare might be slightly disingenuous, as I was ever so slightly captive. Yes, I could get outside if I was desperate (and organised, which I wasn’t) but having just finished one session at the Beacon Climbing Centre, with three hours before my next, going climbing outside seemed illogical. Perhaps not even my 21 year old self would’ve been that keen! Either which way, my plan was always to climb inside in the gap.

I hadn’t anticipated the weather though and the conditions could not be more perfect. I’ve written somewhere of the strange British trait of social pressure to be outside whenever possible, even if you don’t particularly want to, and the guilt that comes when you choose to do something else. City parks on sunny days are a perfect example: throngs of people hunkered in the shade under large trees. They’re not enjoying the sunshine, they’re fulfilling an obligation (not all obviously but some). That’s the situationb in which I found myself.

I’d opted for comfort; a nice chair and a desk. In need of sustenance and with the rarity of a pre-made lunchbox, I neglected my book or anything more engaging and figured I’d stick a climbing film on. I had my laptop with me after all and have been wanting to watch some for a while but struggling to find the right time. Now seemed as good as any; especially once I looked on the hard drive and found one that I’d been meaning on watching for some time but hadn’t had the right chance.

The Film

We watched Reel Rock 15 like so many other climbers around the world: live streamed online. However wanting to support them – and having antiquated ideals about possession of items – I paid for and downloaded a copy too.

I’m guessing not that many people will have done as I did, because Reel Rock had included two extra films to the download: The Perfect Season, featuring Janja Garnbret winning every bouldering World Cup over a season; and Born Among Boulders, about Giuliano Cameroni from Ticino, realising that despite all his travels in search of perfect bouldering destinations, it was actually in his back yard after all.

Cameroni gives the now typical story given by any featured climber on a film of this type of his childhood: getting into climbing; being exceptional; rising through the grades. On it, you hear him talk about the old Dosage films, with Dave Graham (his idol) and Swiss Gneiss in Dosage IV and Return to Swizzy in Dosage V. I too remember these films vividly and seem to have been similarly captivated.

Only Cameroni is from Ticino. And he’s younger than me. And much better. He set his sights on repeating Off the Wagon 8c+/V16, one of the most famous boulder problems in the world. Yet, despite the obvious differences, i felt a parallel with this young stalwart. What sets aside the Pro films these days from myriad other climbing films online is the story that accompanies it and (spoiler alert) while it comes as no surprise that Cameroni succeeds in his quest – very few of these films don’t see the protagonist get to the top by the end of the film – it is the quest over six years that proves the captivating factor. Spending that long on a project to push the uppermost limit of one’s abilities sounds somewhat familiar.

The Progress

This August will be four years since i started on Goal: 8a. Disrupted by Covid, work and other committments, it’s difficult to know how i’m getting on. Project specific training has been few and far between but despite this, the project has always been in the back on my mind.

Covid-disrupted preparations have meant that last Spring it was not feasible but this year, the insane mileage brought on by both the Beacon and Indy aggregate competitions means I’m hoping this may just be the end of a long journey. Yes, the niggles have started to appear but resting seems key, my fingers are coping well. Even the weather has turned nicer. In short, optimism is high.

There have been disappointments along the way. Given the aforementioned disruptions, last year became more about mileage than difficulty and while a tremendous success, meant my Top Ten Yearly Average saw it’s lowest figure since 2017; the year Rosie was born.

Yearly Average grade for ten hardest routes per year, redpoint in red, flash in yellow

As much as i know looking at it now that the dip was a consequence of different tactics and life distractions, i will undoubtedly forget that in the future; the context will be lost and i will forever look at that dip and sigh. However the curve looks familar, similar to the super-compensation curve. Yes, the time scales are wildly different and i’m not suggesting that the practice works over the course of years but even the idea of the similarity was enough to spur me on.

Super Compensation graph, recovered from https://science4performance.com/category/sports-science/

These films and sport science are clearly so far removed from my long term goal that they should probably be forgotten. But someone asked me what the mitigating factor was when trying projects at this level. My answer: it all has to come together. It’s not just a case of being stronger, of having the right conditions, of being mentally focused, at this point (compared to my existing sends) everything has to come together. If these arbitrary concepts help, that can only be a good thing.

Indoors, Local Excursions

A Near-Christmas Update

Dec 21, 2021 chezdelabloc 2 Comments

Usually at this time of year, if the blog has gone quiet, it’s often because there’s not much going on; lost in a sea of indoor trudgery, slowly trying in vain to tick off another climb on the aggregate comps. This year, however, has been quite the opposite.

Overwhelmed with various different work committments – as well as my parental duties, which have increased in recent months – coupled with the usual Autumnal/Wintery weather (i.e. wet) there’s been scant chances to get out on rock proper; although it has happened. Still, such large amounts of time in the wall has seen unprecedented strength gains, coupled with enhanced technical skills through repeated coaching sessions. There’s even been cross training in the pool for the first time in a long time.

Overall, it’s been well worth writing about. If only i could’ve found the time!

Aggregate Achievements

Work at both walls means climbing at both walls. Climbing at both walls over the winter meant the obvious: competing in both aggregates. Ambitious? Yes but so far so good. In fact, more than so good.

As posted in my Solstice post, my goal is to achieve 85% completion of all problems across both aggregates and one major benefit is that the maths is fairly straightforward; i can keep calculating my percentage as i go through the year and try and keep the averages at the right point.

I really wasn’t expecting these levels of success. I remember the first time i completed an entire face at the Indy and the unbridled joy and pride in what i’d achieved. Now it’s becoming commonplace. So far, eleven climbs have been removed without seeing me on the last hold. That’s out of roughly 400 being sent. Yes there are still some up that i haven’t finished but there really aren’t that many; at the Indy, i’ve currently got eight while at the Beacon there remain seven projects.

The numbers are currently staggering me and not what i expected at all. Not just that but i’m getting bigger and bigger grades too, so it’s not just a case of mileage. Already this season i’ve ticked a 7c+ (something i haven’t done for several years) while Friday gone, my session included 2x7c, 1x7b+, 2x7b, 1x7a+ and 1x7a, with many of these being flashes. Granted, those grades will likely come down substantially but none will be less than 7a and seven 7s in a night is impressive (for me) no matter what!

With such large volumes and high difficulty going on, though, it is leaving me a little susceptible.

A Weary Eye on Injury

Pain comes, generally, in two forms: acute and chronic. While no pain is good, acute pain (short term and generally sharp) is typically a warning sign and in sport, often comes from something going bash, bang, twang or other such noises. It’s relatively easy to deal with by resting out the injured body part until the pain goes away. It’s the chronic pain (long term and constant) that really should make us worry; while still a warning sign (all pain is our body telling us something isn’t right) it is far more complex and harder to deal with.

The type of pain can then be married with the severity of the pain and there are lots of ways to do this, depending on how technical you want to get. However we can easily make it simple by classifying pain as Mild, Moderate or Severe. For me lately, i’ve managed to get myself a severe acute pain in my left knee and a mild chronic pain in my fingers. Dealing with these will likely determine not only my short term success but potentially the future of my climbing for the next however many years.

With so much climbing going on, i’m finding the niggles are creeping in and these are the mild chronic pains. They’re constantly there but mostly ignorable, never reaching the point of severity where i need to stop and rest substantially. The thing that, not so much worries me but makes me cautious is the idea that mild may turn to moderate and that then becomes weeks or months of treatment rather than a couple of days of rest. These niggles are easily manageable with care and a strong reminder to do some antagonist work [see this fantastic example from the ever-wonderful Eric Horst on Effective Forearm Antagonist Training for Climbers].

This is on top of one of the worst falls in recent times; a severe acute pain. Trying some silly eliminate on a V3, i was clamping the arete between a poor hold (right foot) and a smear (left foot). With the right hand completely solid around the arete and the left on a terrible sloper, the smear slipped, barn doored and cracked my left knee on two holds on the way down, landing (i think) on my left knee and left shoulder. It was one of those falls where everyone stops and looks at you.

Driving home was a challenge but the next day was pure endeavour, cringing, wincing and whining with every press of the heavy clutch pedal. I couldn’t walk properly for a week. Thankfully, after about ten days, it eased and other than some gentle bruising, is now largely healed.

These two episodes do highlight the importance of staying fit and healthy over the course of the season. Winter aggregate training is great in so many ways but needs to be sustainable. Keeping track of your body is often overlooked but is vital to coming out of the winter injury free.

A Brief Note On the Outside World

As much as my indoor achievments are certainly making me happy, it is outside where i really measure my success. I won’t remember a really good night at the Indy in years to come but a single 7c+ will live long in the memory.

Thankfully, the weather has turned a little nicer and coincided with a downturn in work around Christmas. It has meant i can start getting out again.

A few weeks back, i’d managed a sneaky session at Parisella’s Cave that hadn’t quite gone to plan (more on this on my next post). Yesterday, i was back, determined to give a really good go at Rock Atrocity Wobbly Block start 7c+ and for once, i got my tactics spot on. Everything went well, i warmed up well (a brisk walk into town only spoiled by a seagull nicking the last of my steak slice and biting my finger in the process) and worked each section to completion. Sadly my fingers waned before i could get that elusive full link but everything seems promising for the next opportunity. Watch this space.

New Years Resolutions

Merry Solstice: Winter 2021

Oct 31, 2021 chezdelabloc 1 Comment

It takes me a little while to do my seasonal post. Some years, i can spend a couple of weeks drafting it, reviewing the last season and looking forward. Other years, i leave it until the last minute and have to rush through it very quickly.

This season, i’ve been writing this seasonal review over the course of the week leading up to my Solstice and it’s very much changed the way i’ve been thinking. The family have been away so i’ve had the house to myself and i’ve realised that i’ve been taking my amazing life for granted.

Climbing has been my life for nearly twenty years now. It’s been my heart and soul, has seen me realise my dreams of travelling the world, has kept me sane during fallow periods, given me companions and great friends when i’ve been alone. And now i’m not alone, i have a wonderful family of the most fantastic partner and two amazing little girls. And to top it all off, i get to share my passion with people for a living.

The nature of these New Years posts is twofold: to make sure i’m looking back and appreciating what i have achieved and to look forward to the future. My life philosophy says simply that when i get to the end, if i can look back and say “that was worth it” then i’ll be happy. That means i can’t rest on what i’ve done before, i need to keep going, keep doing amazing things and keep striving for more.

But that doesn’t mean i should lose sight of the first part of my seasonal posts. Looking back, i have achieved so much, done so much and have much to be proud of and i shouldn’t forget that. Yes, it’ll never be as much as i wish it could’ve been but that’s life. I often say “anything is possible if you want it enough” and while i still think that’s true, everything comes at a price. Do you want it enough to sacrifice everything to achieve it? Sometimes there are more important things. The trick is finding that balance and the balance is how we view the world as much as anything else. Focus too much on what is ahead and you lose sight of what is happening right now. Dwell on the past too much and you never move forward. There’s the balance: between the past, the present and the future. And right now, all three are looking pretty sweet.